Sauternes: richness and precision

Posted on 6/25/2008 6:24 PM

Sauternes: richness and precision

This famous wine region comprises five communes: Sauternes, Barsac, Fargues, Preignac and Bommes (though there is a separate, yet similar Barsac appellation). After St. Emilion, perhaps the loveliest Bordeaux appellation, with gently rolling hills conducive to bicycle rides. General impression is of good to high quality, with a few odd exceptions. No major faults as noticeable as in 2004, but neither reaching the impeccable balance plus botrytis-infused flavor intensity of 2001, nor some of the heights (or lows, for that matter) of 2003… although 2005 is superior to 2003 in general because it is generally more balanced. Relatively rare for a vintage to include both good red wines and white wines, particularly sweet whites, as the grapes are harvested later – and weather changes. In 2005, all categories did well: the earliest picked dry whites, the middle period picked dry reds and the later picked Sauternes. Just a word on Sauternes: many producers dislike the word “sweet” because it sounds to the non-initiated like a wine doctored with sugar. No, rather it is about a mold called botrytis cinerea which naturally develops and concentrates the grapes’ natural sugars by eliminating water. Lucky for wine lovers, botrytis also leaves spicy aromas and flavors and is delicious.

Chateau Raymond Lafon

Tasting near the garden of this lovely chateau is always a pleasure; one is surrounded by palm trees and tropical plants… all near a pond with geese, ducks and peacocks strutting about. The wine in 2005 was very good, a theoretical blend of their very successful 2004 and their enormous 2003, both of which I tasted with wine negociant and harvest writer Bill Blatch, accompanied by retailers from the US (none of the vintages are yet available on the market as this estate ages its wines three full years before release).

2005: A subtle nose precedes a very streamlined and balanced feel on the palate, showing botrytis with notes of nectarine, grapefruit rind and beeswax (so common with Raymond Lafon in more balanced vintages), then very ripe quince with orange zest – and a long, again balanced, finish, crisp and full. Somewhat like the 2001, but happily their biggest harvest since 1962. Quality and quantity: 92-94+

2004*: In 2004, many French wine writers – including Bernard Burtschy, editor at La Revue du Vin de France – praised Raymond Lafon for a ruthless selection in this vintage. Just under 2/3 of the harvest was not used, and the result is fine. More citrus and even candied apple, compared to the 2005, a bit under its 100% new oak influence, and lighter, but with good botrytis and a clean and pure linear feel and finish. 90-92+

2003: Wow, this wine is B I G. I am not sure how to approach this behemoth. I feel it lacks the balance of both the 2005 and the 2001, both of which I know well, but it does have lots of botrytis and reminds me of a Rieussec, so well known for its richness. Also pleasing and exotic notes of kiwi, slightly caramel (!) and cherry liqueur.  For lovers of large-scale Sauternes!  I am certain it will evolve just fine over time, as did the somewhat similarly profiled (but not interesting) 1997. 91-94?

Tasted blind at Chateau Guiraud on April 4

#1 (Chateau Broustet): Cloudy color. Odd, slightly salty notes with a pineapple smoothness and crispy acidity – a better palate than nose. Overall nice balance, if not really exciting. 87-90

#2 (Chateau Filhot): Very clear color, a bit too yellow? Nose not saying much. Palate is a tad hard and slightly hot. Nice honeysuckle (chevrefeuille) flavors, but also a sense of dilution. Medium bodied, medium finish. 86-88+

#3 (Chateau Suau): Another cloudy, straw color, slightly darker than #1. Ripe, juicy pineapple aromas, with botrytis in evidence, more so than in two previous, but also a tad cloying. Give it time? 87-90

#4 (Chateau Lamothe Guignard): Very clear quite yellow color, with pineapple-like flavors, and palate is salty and also cloying… Lacks balance, though has a nice texture and decent finish. 86-88

#5 (Chateau d’Arche): A discrete nose with botrytis infused tropical fruit punch flavors, and a somewhat light feeling on the palate. Nice balance though a tad medicinal on the finish. Overall pretty good. 87-89+

SECOND FLIGHT (All fairly light colored, like straw)

#6 (Chateau Romer du Hayot*): Peach and botrytis aromas, the palate nicely balances creaminess and acidity with elements of lime. Quite a nice Sauternes! 89-92+

#7 (Chateau Caillou): A bit more yellowish than the rest, but with nice beeswax botrytis infused flavor and aroma. Shows some heat on the palate, which is a bit simple. 87-89+

#8 (Chateau Bastor Lamontagne): Dumb nose precedes an at first equally unexpressive palate. Later shows some oak-derived notes. The feel is a tad diluted, with average texture. Uncertain about this one, though I got to thinking in terms of a second wine… 86-88?

#9 (Chateau Doisy Daene*): Rather cloudy compared to previous bottles, with initial salty lime aromas with oak toast – reminded me of a lime cocktail. The palate is fresh and frank with a good finish marked by botrytis, though just a tad hot. Still, I like the character of this wine. 90-93

#10 (Chateau Romer): Another cloudy sample with notes of coconut and apricot and a fairly frank attack, buttery on the palate. Nice acidity/residual sugar overall balance. Finish is just a tad thin and hot… 89-91+

THIRD FLIGHT

#11 (Chateau Lamothe): A lemon-lime botrytis nose, which is very nice and clean, again like a lime cocktail! Another good frank attack, medium-bodied and streamlined feel on the palate with an adequate finish, slightly cloying. 88-91+

#12 (Chateau de Myrat*): Too many oak-derived aromas but a pretty nose with some none too complex green apple elements… Palate is a tad eau-de-vie, but nice overall texture and feel; not as harmonious as some of the better wines thus far, but thick and broad shouldered, with clues that “stuff is going on here”… 89-91+

#13 (Chateau de Malle*): Young straw color preludes a nicely balanced and elegant expression of botrytis intermingled with vanilla and kiwi fruit. Palate is creamy yet nuanced. A nice finish. Nice job! 91-93

#14 (Chateau de Fargues): The yellowest of the bunch. Honeysuckle and canned pineapple aromas, and palate is again very pineapple but with impressive botrytis spice as well and a broad palate coating texture. I get the feeling of a wine that is not quite together but will be quite nice in bottle, though the aromas are not as good as the palate. 88-92?

#15 (Chateau Doisy Vedrines): A “suave” nose of peach and apricots with botrytis spice. The palate is balanced, with subtle peach flavors dominating, and the finish is broad is somewhat short. Nice overall. 89-92

FOURTH FLIGHT

#16 (Chateau Niarac): An odd liqueur aroma bordering on Schnapps. Palate is tight at first, then juicy chewing gum fruit flavors, a tad superficial and slightly cloying. 86-88

#17 (Chateau Lafaurie Peyraguey): Oak-derived toast, rather strong in fact with vanilla and spice, but palate has a nice creamy feel, pleasant finish and perhaps not as botrytis-filled or as intense as some of the best ones so far. 88-90

#18 (Chateau de Rayne Vigneau): Nice nose of peach and spice, followed through on the palate though a bit medicinal and hot on the back end. Okay. 87-89

#19 (Chateau Rabaud Promis): Very yellow color brings forth exotic notes of litchis and kiwi, also salty with some caramel oak-derived notes. The palate is broad and flavorful and some nice acidity cuts through with a deep and fine finish. Best of the flight. 89-91+

#20 (Chateau Guiraud): Nice nose of fruit and hints of botrytis but the palate is overly thick and somewhat cloying, and I get some artificially flavored fruit as well. Has nice spice however, but cannot get beyond the pasty quality… 85-87

FINAL FLIGHT

#21 (Chateau Clos Haut Peyraguey*): Intrigued by the smokiness of the nose with crispy clean pear and peach. Palate at first a tad cloying but overall very nice botrytis flavors dominate, with a later coming zing of acidity as well. Quite nice. 90-91+

#22 (Chateau Rieussec): This was a clear standout last year in the blind tastings… Not so this year, but it is still quite good. Botrytis aromas with moderate toast precede a moderately rich palate with pleasing peach and coconut flavors and a nice finish, but nothing earth shaking either. Very good. 90-92+

#23 (Chateau Suduiraut): Orange zest and pineapple aromas precede a very nuanced palate with pear and pineapple plus botrytis spice. A very nice texture, with layers of flavor and a smooth and fine finish. Quite nice indeed. Tasted again at Chateau Pichon Baron (same owners) and it was just as impressive. 91-94

#24 (Chateau Sigalas Rabaud): A somewhat closed nose precedes a slightly ho-hum palate dominated by butternut crisp and moderately spicy notes, followed by flavors akin to a pineapple flavored creamy yogurt. Texture is a tad diluted and the finish is short. 86-87+

#25 (Chateau Coutet): Nose is somewhat closed, but the palate is very nice, with clearly spicy botrytis-based flavors plus clove and cinnamon and an intriguing note of … freshly just-picked fig. The palate is full and the finish smooth and long. A tad hot? 90-92+

#26 (Chateau La Tour Blanche): Another closed nose but the palate is very disappointing, tasting of stewed pineapple. Very one dimensional. Judgement reserved. ??

Finally, I tasted the Chateau d’Yquem at the chateau before a gala dinner to open the Bordeaux 2005 tastings for some 115 journalists. What a dinner it was, with fantastic wines, including a Chateau d’Yquem 1983 and a Climens 1976, among many others.

2005: Winemaking assistant Francis Meyer told me that the 2005 (photo at left) reminds him of the 1989, but more balanced, with greater freshness. This vintage showed a nice golden hue, with delectably creamy kiwi and lots of botrytis underneath. The palate is very rich but nuanced, with just hints of oak coming through. There is also a very refreshing yet never too prominent underlying acidity and … reassuring minerality. What a subtle and rich wine, for the ages. 93-95+

Tasting notes: Merlot Madness / Where Cabernet rules / Reds and

Whites in Graves and Sauternes

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